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Northwestern New Mexico, Chaco Canyon, northeastern Arizona 10.2.05
Jittery: Washboard dirt roads are not good for wheel alignment, as my friendly Honda dealer will inform me a few days hence en route to relieving me of more than $500.

Fine dining and lodging: Sonic drive-in, a vestige of '50s eateries in which one is brought food while sitting in a motor vehicle by wait staff on roller skates; Chaco Canyon campground, an altogether agreeable place to pitch a tent in the middle of nowhere and a comfortable 50 feet or more from the next person who had the same idea.

Kemosabe, can you spare a dime?: An American Indian sitting outside a convenience store in a nearby town informs me he is an American Indian and, as such, could use a few extra dollars. I inform him I'm not and I could use a few extra dollars myself. I'm heartened that people from all walks of life can agree on basic truths.

Revelation that seeps in eventually: This place is not the end of the world, but the end of the world is probably just around the bend or up the next arroyo.

Fair game: Hunting is big in this part of the country, both in ancient times and in the present.


