In traditional indigenous Guatemala, the civil-religious hierarchy, or cofradias (religious brotherhoods)
were of utmost importance in community integration. While the turmoil of the 40-year civil war and evangelization
by U.S. missionaries have lessened their influence, Todos Santos is one of those places where this tradition
is still strong. Men participate in various levels of the hierarchy by participating in and sponsoring traditional fiestas. As he moves up in the hierarchy, these individuals influence political and social, rises. It is extremely expensiveto participate - one pays for the privilege. This is a redistribution mechanism - alcohol and food is given
back to the community.
One of the high points of the fiesta in Todos Santos is the annual
horse race, in which inebriated riders gallop up and down a dirt road
until only one remains in his saddle. The gathered crowds, set up for
a long siege, show little enthusiasm, and for good reason. A local
belief is that a fatality during the race signals good luck for the
coming year.
Todos Santos, 11.1.06
Driven to excess: The main event of the Dia de los Muertos fiesta is a horse-race competition on Nov. 1. The jinetes (or horsemen)
spend the evening before the race in ceremonial alcoholism. By the time of the race, the following morning, many are quite inebriated. Many fall during the sprints and fatalities are not unknown. As local legend has it, if someone dies during the race, it is considered an offering to the Mayan spirit world and va a pasar un buen año (it is going to be a good year). The events had a mystical quality in 2006, when clouds from the departing rainy lingered overhead and occasionally dipped low enough to fog the proceedings.
The fiesta in Todos Santos is great people watching. The villagers gather from surrounding communities, dressed in colorful costumes of mainly rich blues and brilliant reds. Young girls elaborately braid their hair with ribbons. Everyone monitors the parade of humanity from balconies and windows, except perhaps the napping pooches.
Copyright Gary Olson 2006-2010
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