Arizona's tasty
trail mix

Want to know how popular hiking is in Arizona these days? Climb Squaw Peak in north Phoenix on Thanksgiving morning.

Instead of switching on the first football game of the day, a lot of people head for this, the most-hiked urban trail in the United States. Guess how many people you would have passed during the 1 ½-hour round trip.

One hiker counted 1,076 of his brethren in boots.

Hiking in Arizona is like that. A lot of people are out there walking around the state, but estimates are probably always going to be low.

We’re not talking about one holiday morning. Unlike many states, hiking is never out of season in Arizona. During the searing heat of summer, the cool mountains beckon. During the snowy winters up north, the southern deserts are sunny and warm.

Kaibab Trail
Century plants stand guard along the Grand Canyon's Kaibab Trail.

And there are thousands of places to hike, from the stark shoreline along Lake Mead to the fascinating maze of trails winding through the Chiricahua National Monument, and everywhere in between.

The forbidding mountain ranges and arid landscapes discourage human habitation just enough to leave plenty of regions untouched by roads.

That doesn’t mean they’re untouched by beauty. It’s everywhere out there, sometimes in the unlikeliest places. It makes travel by foot and enchanting as well as rewarding experience. You can truly get away from it all in Arizona.

But how to quantify the popularity of hiking? That’s a tough one, since hikers don’t need to join a group or register at the entrance or buy a license.

The evidence tends to come in roundabout ways:

There are dozens of hiking and hiking-related groups in the state. National Trails Day every summer brings people out in droves to not only ply the byways but clean and fix them up in dozens of events statewide.

State parks officials report a huge patronage at popular locations and for popular events. A moonlight walk in Lost Dutchman State Park in the Superstition Mountains east of the Valley drew more than 500 participants on a hot June night. The park staff was overwhelmed, and reservations procedures are being set up for similar types of undertakings.

Kaibab TrailConsider Phantom Ranch, the historic lodge at the bottom of the Grand Canyon. It is a formidable hike to get there and back, yet reservations are booked 11 months in advance and routinely sell out within hours of the day they become available.

The guest book in the Ranch’s dining hall bears names and addresses from throughout the world, but a significant number are state residents.

There’s no keeping people away, either. A hike to Thunder River, a remote water hole down a precipitous trail off the North Rim of the Grand Canyon, turned up a dozen other beleaguered souls in the insane heat of August, including a group from Sweden.

National parks rangers would be happy if hikers, bikers and horse riders would just stay on the trails already available. They’re constantly blocking off trail shortcuts and closing ruts dug by four-wheel-drive and off-road vehicles that quickly become trails and then roads.

We’ve already got lots of trails. The State Parks Department sells a four-volume state trails guide that lists 452 officially recognized paths. The trail situation remains in flux as well; a supplement listing another 50 or so was released soon after the hefty guide became available.

Trails are being built or improved at an impressive rate with funds allocated from Arizona’s state lottery income. A half-million dollars are channeled in upwards of a dozen new projects each year.

The biggest project is the Arizona Trail, a 450-mile-long trail snaking from Mexico to Utah, largely across public lands. It was built with volunteer labor provided by everyone from altruistic individuals to state-based forest-firefighting crews to the national Sierra Club.

People actually came from other parts of the country at their own expense and during their own vacations to shovel gravel and haul rocks and help build the trail.

The state trails coordinator fields a steadily increasing number of inquiries from around the world about hiking the Arizona Trail.

The word is out. Join the fun.

Organizations, clubs

Top five state parks for hikers

Five noteworthy Phoenix-area trails

Five challenging Arizona trails

Copyright Gary Olson 2010 First published in The Arizona Republic