The Adriatic has one of the most indented coastlines in Europe with 1,185 islands and islets, of which only 66 are inhabited. It is undoubtedly the most popular tourist destination in Croatia.
For my part, I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travel’s sake. The great affair is to move.
Robert Louis Stevenson
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Tour boats glide into Vela Luka's harbor on Korcula, one of the picturesque Dalmatian islands off the coast of Croatia.
Pedal to the mettle
Inselhupfen offers a rewarding mix of bicycling and cruising for determined visitors to Croatia
Two revelations await active tourists who sign onto any of the many bicycling tours criss-crossing the Dalmatian islands along the coast of Croatia.
First, there comes a point when the at-times daunting uphill pedaling prompts one to reconsider whether this is really an enjoyable vacation after all and perhaps turning back would be a reasonable alternative.
Riders and guides debark in the port of Omis and prepare to attack the serpentine road above the banks of the Cetina River. An alternative to the daunting climb is a relatively easy-going rafting trip down the placid, lushly forested river, once a hideout for pirates.
Then those who discover they aren't as fit as they thought come to the realization that the boat they got off this morning is no longer behind them but is gliding around the island and will soon be ahead; continuing the slog up this steep and winding little road is in reality the only choice.
The second epiphany comes soon after when the top of the hill is finally achieved and a stunning vista of the Adriatic Sea streaked with beige and green islands heaves into view along with the prospect of coasting much of the way back down to the coastline.
Bicycling in the Adriatic Sea is both tougher and easier than the average active tourist might expect. Dozens of packages are available that offer a hefty dose of pedaling mixed with pleasant and comfortable cruising among hundreds of idyllic Dalmatian islands, visits to quaint and historic towns and a variety of water sports.
Prime season for such tours is spring and fall, when temperatures and weather are benign. Summer is hot, winter is not available.
Trogir, a walled city founded by the Greeks in the fourth century B.C. and honeycombed with narrow, winding streets, is dominated by the steeple of the Church of St. Nicholas. At right, stone lions guard the church's entrance.
Many outfitters conduct these tours, Inselhupfen (or Island Hopping, a German firm) prominent among them. Typical departure points are Dubrovnik, Trogir, Rijeka and Split.
Itineraries vary depending on the blend of urban and nature experiences desired, but all of them concentrate on the islands sprinkled between Rijeka and Dubrovnik, some of the most scenic terrain in the Mediterranean basin. Popular islands in the mix include Hvar, Brac and Korcula, lengthy but narrow isles lying side by side south of Split.
Brightly colored boats of all shapes and sizes are typical along the
Dalmation
Coast, here in the harbor of Omis, a hangout for pirates in centuies past.
At right, an informal sculpture garden gives riders reason
to
take
a break
during the long trek across the highlands of Brac.
This is arrid, sun-splashed terrain rising sharply from the sea that is dotted with quaint, picturesque towns huddled around sparkling blue harbors beneath rocky hillsides carpeted with thick undergrowth and occasional small farms bordered with simple rock walls. Two-lane roads snake across the craggy landscapes, climbing, as on Brac, more than a half-mile (1,200 meters) in as little as four miles (7 kilometers), inclines sure to get the attention of even fit cyclists.
The payoff is an invariably stunning Adriatic panorama - and a delightful and thrilling coast down the backside of the island into the pleasant, tree-lined streets and walkways of Bol, a resort town famed for Zlatni rat (or Golden Horn) beach, one of the more distinctive sun-worshipping spots in the world because of its distinctive tapering, horn-shaped configuration.
On the north coast of Brac, the quaint town of Pucisca is typical of Dalmatian
island communities built around sheltered harbors.
The town is noteworthy
for
its famed granite carving shop, below, where Croatian boys learn to
synthesize the
ancient skills and modern techniques of fine stone carving.
These trips are not only about chugging up one side of any given island and swooping down the other. A stop in the mainland port of Omis affords the option of pedaling up the banks of the Cetina River, historic hideout of Corsair pirates, or a relaxing paddle down the tree-draped waterway and a quick portage around an impressive waterfall.
A visit to Mljet offers a break from cycling and instead a short hike through its lushly forested national park and a swim in its two balmy lakes, Veliko and Malo jezero, which are heated by hot springs. A ferry ride across the latter takes one to the small island of Melito and its simple Benedictine monastery. Legend holds that Ulysses enjoyed this island.
Quaint white-walled, red-roofed towns hug the hillsides around sheltered coves.
Hvar is one of the notable resort islands in Adriatic. Its namesake port is a picturesque and intriguing labyrinth of winding streets climbing to an impressive hilltop fortress dominating the harbor. The push up and over the spine of the island ends in Stari Grad, a quaint fishing port.
Bikes are unloaded for the daily island trek.
All these sightseeing and cycling opportunities occur against the backdrop of cruising the Adriatic aboard an assortment of sturdy and modern boats that serve as home throughout the weeklong experience. Meals are included in the tour price and, because of the level of exertion during the daily cycling efforts, are nothing less than sumptuous.
After the daily bike tours, there is usually ample time for swimming, kayaking and snorkling. In port, there is time to wander and shop. For those who want a break from the pedaling schedule, it is a simple matter of staying onboard and relaxing while the shoreline glides by.
Allot time before or after any of these outings to explore one or more of the historic Croatian cities of Trogir, with its walled old town and impressive harbor; Split, an ancient city that grew up around the enormous palace built by Roman emperor Diocletian which is today a World Heritage Site; or Dubrovnik, with its quaint old central city.
Copyright Gary Olson 2010. First published in The Denver Post
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