Llama trekking
Llama trekkers arrive at the Betty Bear hut, part of Colorado's 10th
Mountain hut system, in the central Rocky Mountains near Basalt, CO.

Take a load off

Hiking with llamas eases the journey and offers enlightenment about a gentle beast of burden

First, let's dispel a prevalent misconception about llamas.

"Yes, they do spit, but only in rare situations when they feel threatened - it's a defense mechanism, usually against another llama," said veteran llama trekking guide Melanie Dennis. "I've never seen a llama be aggressive toward a person."

Hiking with llamas is becoming popular in the central Rocky Mountains as well as elsewhere, and an array of outfitters offer dual opportunities to experience remote Colorado wildernesses and these interesting animals at the same time.

While these gentle pack animals will carry your load for hours on end, they do so with a few basic requirements.

"Llamas like their space as much as humans do. They are more like cats than dogs in that way," said Dennis, who for the past five years conducts multiday llama trips into the high country for Paragon Guides, a Vail Valley-based outdoor adventure guiding service.  

Using llamas as beasts of burden occurred to Buck Elliott, president and founder of Paragon Guides, in the mid-1980s when he wanted to take his children into the wilderness with him. That trip made him understand why llamas have been used as pack animals for centuries in the Andes of South America.  

"I've taken llamas to places where I'd never take a horse," Elliott said, noting that they are easy to transport, require less care and equipment, are more versatile in rough terrain, and have less impact on the environment than horses or mules.  

Llamas' padded feet make them sure-footed and easy on fragile alpine terrain. They can jump several feet off the ground and can duck under obstructions. They feed themselves, grazing on any available grass and native plants.

Related to camels, they can go for long periods without drinking water, quenching their thirst instead from the moisture in leaves. Llamas are gentle and compliant, willing to be lead by a rope and can be ridden. At night, they only need to be tethered to a stake and will bed down on any soft place.  

Dennis leads custom llama treks along the loop trail that utilizes Colorado's famous 10th Mountain Division Hut System. The route travels over rugged peaks and lush valleys in the Holy Cross, Mount Massive and Hunter/Fryingpan Wilderness areas. On these outings, llamas can carry up to 120 pounds of food and gear in twin panniers strapped across their broad backs with special pack saddles.

Llama packOn one such outing, the
loads were borne by Dante and Brazo , who contentedly jumped into a truck for a bumpy drive to a trailhead east of Basalt, CO. After strapping on their loads, our group of five embarked on a single-track path up to the Betty Bear Hut at 11,100 feet.

The humans had to carry only light to moderate day packs containing immediate needs: rain gear, water bottle, extra shirt, and sunscreen.

Experienced animals like these make the job easy, docilely following with a light yet lively step, never lagging or trying to graze along the trail as horses do.

Llamas can go anywhere hikers can walk - along steep trails, across waterways and through dense foliage. Rain and snow don't concern them because their wool coats - up to 6 to 8 inches thick - keep their bodies dry and insulated from cold.

The only places not suitable for llama trekking are boulder fields, deep snow, and where technical climbing is necessary.

Llama profileWhen we reached the Betty Bear hut, a spacious mountain top accommodation, the llamas happily made themselves at home in a small, open meadow full of wild grasses still wet from a recent rain. They were tethered hooks screwed into the ground.

The cabin, like others in the hut system, included a woodburning stove, propane burner for heating water hauled from a stream, pots, pans and cooking utensils; dishes, glasses and flatware; furniture, beds, mattresses and pillows - even lighting powered by solar panels.

The huts are maintained by the 10th Mountain Division Hut Association. Fifteen are open for summer use July 1-Sept. 30. Reservations are required and should be made well in advance.

Backpackers looking for animal support without an outfitter can rent a llama for about $30-$40 a day from several independent owners. The cost includes saddles, packs, stakeouts and ropes. It does not include transportation or delivery.

Stock racks that fit into the back of a pickup can be rented, or trailers approved by the llama owner can be used. Anyone considering such an outing must take an extensive orientation class on packing and maintaining llamas in the backcountry and should have backpacking experience.

"If you don't know what you're doing in the backcountry, llamas won't help at all. They'll just be a liability," said Mary Mauz of the Colorado Llama Outfitters and Guides Association and owner of Timberline Llamas Inc.

But with the expertise of any of a number of Colorado guides, llama trekking can be a fascinating experience.

Rocky Mountains trail

Copyright Gary Olson 2010 First published in The Arizona Republic